4.1 ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN
Suggestions in this section are traditionally within the control of the owner, architect, and general contractor. These can help accomplish three tasks that reduce the risk of indoor dampness: (1) keep rain off and away from the building envelope, (2) help materials drain water and resist its effects when leaks eventually occur, and (3) keep humid air from infiltrating into the building envelope (especially through the historically problematic large gaps in the long joints where the roof meets the walls).
To be effective, flashing must extend around the entire perimeter of windows and doors. It must be designed and installed so that any water leak above, beside, or through the window framing or door is caught by a watertight pan under the window or door, and redirected back out of the wall and onto the waterproof drainage plane.
The architectural designer (as opposed to the craftsperson installing the flashing) is in the best position to define how all the layers in the wall must be integrated with this flashing. For best results, the architectural plans should show the layer integration in isometric projection, with each layer and its installation sequence defined and illustrated. Most importantly, the architectural drawings need to clearly show how these layers all come together in the corners.
Many designers assume that flashing integration is a question of means and methods, and therefore a contractor responsibility. Depending on the contracts, this may sometimes be the case. But in most situations, designing and detailing the exterior walls with all their complex layers and corners is better left to the architectural designer. This is especially true of the complex inside and outside corner details. It is rarely sufficient to design the layers in section drawings and then hope that the contractor will be able to guess how they are supposed to meet in the corners and still be watertight. The three-dimensional integration of the flashing layers, especially the sill pan flashing, is usually the responsibility of an architectural designer.
When there are no drawings to show in three dimensions the sill pans, the window flashing at the head and jambs, and how all the layers go together in the corners, the architectural design of the flashing is effectively assigned to the installer. That may not always be the person who is best equipped to make complex decisions that involve both form and function as well as material compatibility, construction sequencing, economics, and long-term durability. Additionally, even very capable craftspeople are rarely compensated financially for absorbing responsibility for such design decisions.
Waterproof Drainage Plane
To further reduce risks, exterior walls can be designed with a three-part drainage plane behind the exterior cladding. An effective drainage plane consists of three components:
Waterproof drainage layer with flashing at its base that forces any water leakage back out of the wall assembly.
Air gap to allow smooth flow of any leakage water down the surface of that waterproof layer.
Flashing that prevents water from entering the wall above and around penetrations (e.g., windows, doors, air-conditioning unit sleeves). The flashing is integrated with the waterproof layer such that any leakage water is eventually redirected back out of the wall to the weather side of the cladding.
In theory, exterior cladding can be designed as a barrier system, so that no water ever gets into the exterior wall. However, in practice, whether due to extreme weather or oversight during construction or aging of materials, some water usually gets in.
In some cases, the wraparound air barrier described in the following section can also act as the waterproof layer, if (1) both design and installation of the joinery are done carefully, and (2) the air barrier is adequately supported to minimize flexing. There is no inherent conflict between the functions of air barrier and water barrier; both are vapor permeable. However, keep in mind that an air barrier must be structurally strong enough to resist the full design wind load, and a waterproof membrane needs to remain waterproof. If an air barrier flexes and stretches over time under wind loading, its seams may not remain waterproof. Also, with sheets it is important to remember that the waterproof layers must overlap shingle style, so that each seam sheds water rather than traps it.
Combining the functions of water barrier and air barrier is especially doable when using spray-applied, vapor-permeable but waterproof membranes. However, when the sheets are assembled into a combined air barrier/waterproof layer, all joinery must resist wind loads over time, and it must be detailed to ensure that all its joints and seams shed water.
In addition to the air barrier and waterproof layer, buildings clad with brick, stone, or stucco need exterior vapor barriers because these materials act as moisture reservoirs: unless equipped with specialized coatings, they soak up rainwater. This is not always a problem for the material itself, but it often creates problems for more moisture-sensitive sheathing behind that cladding. Solar heat drives large amounts of hot water vapor out of the cladding and inwards into the sheathing. It is important to line the drainage gap for brick or stucco with a vapor barrier, and that layer may as well act as the waterproof layer and air barrier as well.
Keep in mind that although exterior waterproof layers and air barriers are needed in all buildings, vapor barriers are needed in a much smaller percentage of buildings and must be thoughtfully located to avoid problems. Walls must be able to dry, ideally both inwards and outwards. Exterior vapor barriers have often prevented this necessary drying. Except behind the claddings described above, it is usually best to avoid exterior vapor barriers in hot and mixed climates. In cold climates, if any vapor barrier is needed it should be located toward the inside surface of the wall, not its outside surface.
The basic goal is to keep humid air out of any cold wall. In the cold-climate situation, the humid air is on the inside, so a combination vapor barrier/air barrier is useful in that location. In the hot climate, an air barrier (not a vapor barrier) located near the outside of the wall is usually the best way to keep humid air out of exterior walls that are chilled by the indoor air conditioning. However, the optimal location for a vapor barrier is complex and depends on many other factors that are beyond the scope of this chapter. For more about the different functions and locations for vapor barriers, air barriers, and waterproof layers, see Chapter 26 of the 2017 ASHRAE Handbook—Fundamentals and Chapter 44 of this volume.
Continuous exterior air barriers reduce the risk of indoor moisture problems. Continuous air barriers should not leak air around windows, or through gaps around wall penetrations. Also, the air barrier must continue up the walls and connect with airtight integrity to the roof assembly’s air barrier. In short, the ideal air barrier is continuously sealed around all penetrations and fasteners, and it must wrap around the entire building. A continuous air barrier reduces the risk of moisture problems and also saves energy.
If warm, humid air outdoor leaks into a building, its water vapor may condense on indoor assemblies and materials cooled by the air conditioning system. These cool surfaces absorb moisture from infiltrating humid air, degrading materials and increasing the risk of corrosion and failure of structural fasteners. Also, leaking air imposes an additional load on the air-conditioning system, reducing its ability to keep the dew point low enough to prevent moisture-related problems.
Most air leakage occurs where the walls meet the roof. In traditional designs, this roof/wall joint was sometimes designed to leak (e.g., vented soffits). However, air leakage has proven highly problematic for humidity control, moisture control, and energy consumption. The state of the art is to design and construct buildings that do not leak air, as reflected in the guidance of ASHRAE Standard 90.1 and the requirements of building codes in Canada and standards for U.S. government buildings. From a moisture control perspective, pay special attention to air barrier continuity at the roof/wall joint, which is where major air leaks usually occur.
Mold-Resistant Gypsum Board
When gypsum board is used on or inside exterior walls, or installed over interior concrete or masonry walls, it is prudent to specify products certified by the manufacturer to be resistant to mold growth and moisture damage. Although cement board is generally the preferred material for the lining of showers and bathtubs, any additional gypsum wall board installed in the walls or ceilings of bathrooms, shower rooms, or laundry rooms should also be resistant to moisture and mold growth.
In addition, it is useful to specify that any masonry or concrete covered by gypsum board must be dried to the required moisture content specified by the gypsum board manufacturer. The logic for this suggestion is easily apparent: in parts of the building which can often be moist, it is wise to use moisture-tolerant and mold-resistant wall board. These products provide a useful degree of tolerance for common shortcomings of conventional construction, which begin with construction moisture. Excess construction moisture and plumbing leaks have been responsible for mold and moisture problems in buildings in all climates. In hot and humid regions, rain is a constant challenge on construction sites; in cold climates, the construction season is so short that the building must often be closed in before the concrete and block have had enough time to dry out with ambient air circulation alone.
Mold and moisture problems do not happen in the concrete or masonry block itself, because those materials are moisture tolerant. Problems arise when flooring adhesives are applied over damp concrete, or when untreated, paper-faced gypsum wall board covers damp masonry block.
Exterior walls also benefit from moisture-tolerant wall board. Water leakage and humid air infiltration are probable at some point during the life of the building, no matter how well built it is at the beginning.
Finally, beyond construction moisture and potential rainwater leakage into exterior walls, there are the usual problems with plumbing leaks and indoor water spills. In bathrooms, shower rooms, and laundry rooms, high humidity and water spills are unavoidable. So, to limit risks from these everyday low-level moisture accumulations, it is useful to install moisture-tolerant and mold-resistant products in parts of the building that are likely to become wet.
Permeable Interior Finish for Exterior Walls
To reduce risks of trapping moisture inside walls, specify that any paint or other wall finish for the indoor surface of an exterior wall must have a net value above 15 perm, including the effect of any adhesive.
Impermeable vinyl wall covering on the indoor surface of exterior walls has proven to be frequently problematic, especially in hot and humid climates. In tens of thousands of buildings, vinyl wall covering has been largely responsible for massive mold growth inside exterior walls. The vinyl acts as a vapor barrier, preventing effective drying of moisture that often collects inside exterior walls. Moisture can accumulate through many mechanisms, including leaks in the drainage plane, aging of joints, or humid outdoor air infiltrating and condensing moisture in the material behind the vinyl. There is no practical way to prevent 100% of occasional episodes of moisture accumulation, so it is imperative that moisture not remain trapped inside the wall, as usually happens when vinyl wall covering is adhered to exterior walls.
The same problem can occur with certain types of paint, notably the epoxies and high-durability latex paints. So it is useful to require that any paint or wall covering must have a perm rating above 15 if it is installed on the indoor surface of the exterior wall.
In recent years, manufacturers have developed permeable or semipermeable vinyl wall covering. The actual permeability of these products varies considerably. Risks of moisture accumulation can be reduced by specifying that the system as a whole (wall covering plus its adhesive) must have a wet-cup perm value (ASTM Standard E96-00) above 15.
Ideally, the roof should project at least 2 ft beyond the walls all around the building. This greatly reduces the risks of water leakage, because much less rainwater ends up on the walls over the life of the building.
The baseline risk of mold and moisture problems depends on how much water contacts the exterior walls. More hours of contact and a higher volume of water generates more risk when gaps and cracks occur by design, or during construction, or over the building’s lifetime. The further the roof extends beyond the walls, the less rainwater will flow down those walls to challenge every joint and seam.
A roof projection of about 2 ft is likely to cut the annual rain volume flowing down the walls and windows by roughly 50%. The exact reduction depends on many factors, but 50% is a reasonable approximation of the load reduction value of an overhang. Longer projections are even better because they reduce the rain volume still further. But studies of moisture problems in buildings indicate that even in very rainy climates, very few major moisture problems occur where the roof projection is at least 2 ft beyond the exterior walls (CMHC 1998). As a side benefit, the wider the overhang, the greater the reduction in cooling load, which reduces energy consumption in air-conditioned buildings.
A useful option for taller buildings is to increase the length of the overhang. Interestingly, in high-rise buildings, most of the annual rain load reaches the building as it blows in from the sides during periods of wind-driven rain; the building’s 2 ft overhang catches the approaching wind and forces it to roll into a protective cylindrical air mass near the roof line. That rolling cylinder of air acts as a sort of dry protective bumper, moving most of the oncoming rain-laden wind up, over, and around. Consequently, most of the rainwater never reaches the surface of the building.
Suggestions provided here are traditionally under the control of the HVAC designer, installer, and the building operations staff. These steps can reduce risks by ensuring that the indoor dew point stays below the typical surface temperatures of an air-conditioned building and its HVAC components. They also save energy and reduce the risk of moisture accumulation by preventing cold air from escaping from ducts to chill indoor surfaces, and by avoiding the problems created when humid outdoor air is pulled through walls and through attics instead of through the HVAC system.
Dedicated Outdoor Air Systems (DOAS)
There are many reasons to separate a building’s ventilation air system from its heating and cooling systems by using a DOAS, but from the perspective of reducing risk of moisture accumulation, the most important reason is to ensure that incoming outdoor air is always dried below the indoor dew point. Additionally, if the DOAS units are equipped with return air connections, they can act as effective whole-building dehumidifiers when the building is unoccupied or when the ventilation air flow requirement is reduced.
If incoming ventilation and makeup air is not dried out before it enters the building, it is very difficult to keep excess humidity from being absorbed into the building’s interior finishes and building materials. Incoming ventilation and makeup air typically carries more than 80% of the building’s annual dehumidification load; if this load is not intercepted and removed by a dedicated dehumidification component such as that typically included in a DOAS system, the cooling equipment will struggle to remove the humidity load and often overcools the building as a result. Overcooling leads to discomfort, energy waste, and cooler surfaces. Figure 4 illustrates the consequences in a building that was overcooled instead of dehumidified, resulting in moisture absorption by those cold surfaces and subsequent mold growth. (Note that this level of mold growth occurred in spite of hospital-grade, nonabsorptive epoxy wall paint.)
Maximum 55°F Indoor Dew Point for Mechanically Cooled Buildings in Hot or Humid Climates
Another way to reduce the risk of building moisture problem is to design the HVAC systems so they remove enough humidity to keep the indoor dew point below 55°F during both occupied and unoccupied periods.
Support for this maximum is documented in ASHRAE publications based on the collective experience and judgment of the authors and reviewers of those publications (Fischer and Bayer 2003; Harriman and Lstiburek 2009; Harriman et al. 2001; Spears and Judge 1997). Note, however, that the 55°F control level is not yet incorporated in an ASHRAE standard and has therefore not been subjected to public review. Consequently, each owner and designer must decide what indoor dew point maximum is prudent, given the climate, the needs of the building, and the risks for that building and its occupants from any moisture or microbial growth problem. The following logic behind this control level should help readers use their own judgment about the prudent maximum dew point for different types of buildings, occupancies, and climates.
Keeping the dew point below 55°F protects the building from indoor condensation and excessive moisture absorption into cool surfaces. The 55°F dew point also allows comfort at higher dry-bulb temperatures, which reduces cooling energy consumption and provides comfort for a wider variety of activity levels and body types. At or below a 55°F dew point, occupants rarely need to overcool the space in order to achieve comfort (Fischer and Bayer 2003; Spears and Judge 1997).
Another reason for specifying a dew point maximum in place of a relative humidity maximum is that, in the past, guidance based on relative humidity has been ineffective in preventing moisture accumulation and the associated problems. A maximum 65% rh has been a traditional criterion, and some standards and codes still suggest that as a limit, but building failures have shown that this criterion is not always effective in preventing mold. Consequently, recent publications from ASHRAE, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and U.S. General Services Administration (GSA) recommend a maximum dew point as a reasonable compromise between the competing goals of energy consumption, comfort, and mold avoidance during both occupied and unoccupied hours (EPA 2013; GSA 2014; Harriman and Lstiburek 2009; Harriman et al. 2001).
The basic problem with the 65% rh maximum is that it does not address what happens at the surface of cool materials, which is where problems occur. For example, consider 65% rh in an unoccupied office or day care center closed at night, or on weekends. The building’s thermostat is often reset to 85°F to save energy. At that temperature, 65% means air has a dew point of 73°F. When the air-conditioning system begins to chill the building back down for occupied operation, any surface now cooled to 73°F has a surface relative humidity of 100%, not the 65% value shown by the HVAC control sensors (which measure the air). Air-conditioning systems’ humidity sensors cannot measure the surface relative humidity on all of the cold surfaces on and behind the walls and above the ceilings.
Keeping the indoor air at or below a 55°F dew point avoids such confusion and provides an effective margin of safety for keeping building materials dry. At that dew point, the relative humidity at cool surfaces is very unlikely to rise to levels that promote the amount of mold growth shown in Figure 4.
Holding a building below a 55°F dew point is a conservative suggestion for standard operation, representing the collective experience of many who have investigated moisture problems in buildings. This limit will almost certainly reduce the risks of moisture problems caused by HVAC issues to a negligible level, and also reduce the risks of minor water leakage associated with architectural design and construction. Although the lower dew-point limit may also save energy, cost increases in terms of equipment and operating expense are possible. Many buildings all over the world have exceeded this criterion for a significant portion of their operating hours without any documented moisture or mold problems. Whether problems arise depends on many factors, including the sensitivity of the building material and of the furnishings and finishes, and (perhaps most importantly) the number of hours that interior surfaces are able to absorb moisture from the indoor air. The number of high-dew-point hours varies with climate, and often varies according to the design and operation of the HVAC system. More hours at high dew point increase risks, but do not guarantee failure.
Experience [e.g., Harriman and Lstiburek (2009); Harriman et al. (2001)] also shows that, at high indoor dew points, occupants are very likely to turn down the thermostat to gain comfort, which increases energy consumption. Again, these difficulties will be more problematic as the number of humid hours outdoors increases.
Climate. In cool climates or high-altitude locations with only a few hundred hours of outdoor dew points above 55°F and a few hundred hours of air conditioning, the risk of higher indoor dew points above may be relatively low. Any problems would usually take many years to develop, if they indeed ever happen. But in mixed or humid climates where there are many thousands of hours when the outdoor dew point is above 55°F and where the air-conditioning season (i.e., when building surfaces are chilled) is long, problems may develop in a few months or a few years.
Design for Dehumidification Based on Loads at Peak Outdoor Dew Point
Peak dehumidification loads occur when the outdoor dew point is at its highest level—not when the outdoor dry bulb temperature is at its peak. In absolute terms, the outdoor humidity is 30 to 35% higher at the peak dew point condition compared to the humidity load at the peak dry bulb condition.
Figure 5 shows the effect of this difference on the humidity loads of a medium-sized retail building that complies with the requirements of ASHRAE Standard 62.1-2010. When the humidity loads are calculated at peak outdoor dry-bulb temperature, the load calculation grossly understates the humidity load occurring when the outdoor air is at its local peak dew point. Note also that magnitude of this unexpected difference in humidity loads is usually greatest in continental climates (e.g., Beijing, Cincinnati) rather than coastal climates (e.g., Miami, Hong Kong). To avoid the risk of major shortcomings in the design of the dehumidification components, the designer should use the peak dew point values for dehumidification load calculations. Peak dew-point design values for more than 6000 weather locations are provided in Chapter 14 of the 2017 ASHRAE Handbook—Fundamentals and on the CD accompanying that volume.
Mastic-Sealed Duct Connections
To reduce the risk of problems from humid air infiltration into the building and the risks of problems from chilling hidden surfaces in building cavities, specify that all air system connections and seams must be both mechanically fastened and covered with durable mastic. Such an air sealing requirement also logically extends to connections to air handlers and to air distribution components such as filter boxes, fans, cooling and heating coils, and variable-air-volume (VAV) boxes. Less obviously, the requirement to seal duct connections also extends to all joints in exhaust air duct work.
Air leakage into and out of duct connections has been responsible for many of the most expensive and difficult-to-repair mold problems in buildings. Leaking exhaust duct connections pull air from interstitial spaces, much of which is replaced by untreated outdoor air leaking in through construction joints in the exterior wall. The suction created by the exhaust fan ensures that this humid air infiltration is large, and in many cases, continuous. See Figure 1 for the results of this shortcoming in HVAC and architectural design.
The same thing happens when return air duct connections or plenums leak. The suction of the system creates local negative pressures, which lead to humid air infiltration and subsequent moisture absorption by cool indoor surfaces.
On the positive-pressure side of the fan, any leaks mean that cold air escapes the duct, cooling surfaces behind walls, under floors, and above ceilings. Those cold surfaces can either condense moisture from humid air, or absorb moisture because their surface relative humidity is very high. Both problems result in mold.
The other problem with leaking connections and plenums is that they waste energy. In theory, if the leak is inside the thermal boundary, all the cooling energy stays indoors; in fact, if the cooling capacity is where it is not needed (e.g., in the attic, above the ceiling), the air-conditioning system must work harder and longer to get the needed cooling to the occupied zones. Thus, any air leaks waste fan capacity, fan power, and compressor energy.
Duct tape has been used to satisfy a duct sealing requirement, but this material has often proven inadequate over time. Field experience does not usually match the expectations set by the warranty of duct tape. Durability warranties are only for “properly applied” material in “properly designed” and “properly installed” joints. Apparently, it is more difficult to properly apply the duct tape than might be expected, because over time duct tape has proven to be unreliable as an air seal. Connections that are mechanically fastened and sealed with mastic have not shown the same number or degree of problems.
According to measured data from field studies in California, Florida, New York, and Iowa, air leaks from duct connections waste between 25 and 40% of the annual energy needed to heat and cool the building (Cummings et al. 1996; Henderson et al. 2007; Wray 2006). Consequently, without airtight duct connections, the building is not likely to meet energy reduction targets no matter how efficient the heating and cooling equipment might appear from its ratings. Solving this problem is critical for reaching energy reduction targets: all air-side connections must be sealed with mastic, and unsealed plenums must not be used for either supply or return air systems.
Positive Building Pressure When Outdoor Dew Point Is Above 55°F
During the cooling season, risks of humid air infiltration can be reduced by providing more dry outdoor air to the building than the sum of the exhaust air streams. To reduce the risk of moisture problems during hot and humid weather, it is better to have any air leaks going out of the building. By providing a slight excess of dry ventilation and makeup air, most of the leakage will be from indoors to outdoors, so that air inside the exterior walls will be dry instead of humid. This keeps the building’s materials from absorbing moisture, and the slight outward flow of dry air helps dry out rain leakage that sometimes finds its way into exterior walls.
In most buildings, it is not necessary maintain a specific, defined pressure difference between indoors and outdoors to reduce risks of moisture problems. It is usually enough to design and commission the system so that more air enters the building than is being exhausted. In the real world, it is nearly impossible to maintain a defined pressure difference at all points across the exterior wall at all times. The wind outdoors changes pressures on the exterior wall many times per second, and any system attempting to maintain a fixed difference across an exterior wall is likely to waste cooling, dehumidification, and fan energy by keeping the building overpressurized much of the time.
The reason for the slight positive pressure is simply to keep most of the leakage going out rather than going in, most of the time. As long as that modest goal is achieved, and provided that the other risk reduction measures are installed, the exact amount of positive pressure does not really matter. Less is better, in this case: 10% more air makeup than the total exhaust air is a long-standing rule of thumb, but with modern airtight buildings and airtight duct connections, 5% excess outdoor air is often sufficient.
To minimize energy waste, modern designs sometimes reduce both exhaust and ventilation air steams according to occupancy. The preferred way to do this is to interlock the DOAS system with the exhaust fans. As the exhaust fans reduce speed or turn off, reduce the airflow through the DOAS system, keeping the total outdoor air higher than the total exhaust air. This is often a more practical method than using pressure control. With a very small pressure difference as the target, the system would be constantly hunting (i.e., running the fan speeds up and down, attempting to provide just the right pressure difference).
Winter weather presents a different problem. During the heating season, the humid air is now on the inside of the building rather than the outside. It can be counterproductive to keep blowing warm, humid indoor air outward through the cold exterior enclosure, where it is likely to condense and create problems. During the heating season, airflows should target neutral pressure. In cold climates, big moisture and mold problems happen when humid indoor air is pushed into cold exterior walls. Also, a great deal of energy is wasted by heating excess outdoor air to keep buildings under an arbitrary positive pressure during cold weather. There is no energy or mold risk reduction benefit to positive pressure during cold weather.